The view from St. Peter's at sunset |
The on and off rain when we
landed in Rome didn’t last long. It cleared up by the time we registered at
the hotel and wandered around the corner for lunch at Café Teatro. I had the
carbonara; Suzanne had the arrabbiatta. It
was fabulous.
When I wrote about our
prospective trip in August last year (Viva Italia), the Euro was at $1.45. I speculated that 2012 would be a good year to
go as I thought the Euro might actually be worth as little as one dollar. Unfortunately, the foreign exchange market
had other plans. The Euro was $1.28 by
the time we left and nearly $1.30 by the time we headed home. I am not looking forward to my American
Express bill.
I
remember fondly the days of the Italian Lire.
On my last visit, I bought a leather coat for about $140. The Lire was losing value so fast that I was
able to negotiate a better price by paying in dollars. In fact, I never bought any Lire. I just used dollars for everything. The Euro has changed all that.
Of
course, the debt crisis has led to talk of Italy leaving the Euro. In Rome, the general manager of Hotel Mascagni
was pretty clear that he did not want Italy to leave the Euro. I asked him how he thought the new president,
Mario Monti, was doing. After 8 years of
Berlusconi, he was doing as well as he could, he told me. But, taxes were going up. “He has to find money somewhere,” he said in
perfect English.
In
Florence, we stayed at the Hotel de la Ville on Via Tornabuoni. It’s Florence’s equivalent of Palm Beach’s
Worth Avenue. Luxury goods were flowing from stores including international
brands we know in the States: Gucci,
Rolex, Ferragamo et al. We met
designer/proprietor Davide Cerasi in his 12 by 20 foot shop along the River
Arno where my wife bought a beautiful leather jacket. Signor Cerasi is not well known here but he
does sell his goods through Nordstrom’s. There were no bargains to be had and paying
in dollars is no longer an option.
Curved buildings in Siena |
On a
rainy day, we took a tour to Siena. The
walled city and the winding streets were lined with the same luxury brands we
found in Florence. No bargains to be had
here either. The beautiful young woman
behind the counter in one shop wasn’t upset by the rain. She had been told by her boss to work a
double shift to cover for a sick co-worker.
I asked her if that stressed her out.
She shrugged. “How do you say
stress in Italian?” I asked her. “There is no word for stress in Italian,” she
replied.
Vogue Night Out |
September 18 was Vogue's Fashion
Night Out in Florence. The paparazzi
were out and the high end stores were serving free booze. The Rolex store next to our hotel was having a
private bash. The street party was still
going when we headed back to our hotel at around midnight.
Before we retired for the
night, we stopped in a little square where local designers had set up some
stalls. It was there that I spotted a
tee shirt for sale emblazoned with the slogan, “Capitalism
is Over”. I tracked down the proprietor and asked him
how much. “35
Euros,” he said. “I guess capitalism isn’t over for makers of tee
shirts,” I replied. He mumbled something about the profits going
to earthquake victims. “Really,” I said, “Which one?” He looked a bit embarrassed and finally
admitted that “well, maybe there is about 10
Euros of capitalism left in that price.” If capitalism is over, it wasn’t evident during Vogue’s Night Out.
The bellman who helped us with
our bags when we checked out of the Hotel de la Ville offered a perfect
counterpoint to the earlier perspective we got from the GM of Hotel
Mascagni. “We
were better off with the Lire,” he said in broken English. As for Berlusconi vs. Monti? “Sono uguali.” The same. “Una macchina grande, una casa
grande….” Once they have the
big car and the big house, they don’t care for the little
guy. Of course, if you want to throw a
party, he added, then go with Berlusconi.
Hah!
How will Italy overcome its
fiscal dilemma? Will they drop the
Euro? How will all this affect the
Italian economy? What will happen to the
common man – the bellman, etc.? I might have learned more about all that by
staying home and reading the Wall Street Journal. But, here’s
the lesson I would never have learned by staying home:
There is no word for “stress” in Italian.